Shit the water was freezing. Fucking freezing. Howling Nor-easters had whipped up the cold currents. Thats the Coriolis effect at play. Winds pushing directly against the Counter clockwise currents bring up the deep, bitter, cold, cold water for unprepared surfers like myself to suffer in as we paddle about in boardshorts whilst everyone else rocks thick wetsuits at the start of Summer.
Lips getting a nice shade of blue.
Campsite had heated showers though, so that was nice.
And I got to borrow a Wetsuit in the end.
So it was all pretty good.