Wind ripped through any semblance of surf along a hundred clicks of coast. Passed on the most powerful thing I found. A two meter wedging closeout breaking a few hundred meters off the shore. 2 hours of driving there. 4 hours driving back. Pulling down dirt tracks. Screaming down the highway.
More dirt tracks.
Wind. Sun. Rain. Wind. Sun. Rainbow.
Found the carcass of the most giant blow-fish I’ve ever seen. Strangely emotive face. Like a stoned dolt with a dimly dawning realization of what was up with its lot.
I regretted passing on that surf earlier in the day as I hit the final stretch of highway to home. The sky went pink.
And the road filled with flashing red lights.